Ready, Set, Go Evacuation Tips For Homeowners/Renters in Mason County

As more people move to and rent out homes in the beautiful rural areas of Mason County, it's crucial to be aware of the significant wildfire risks we face. With the increasing heat and dryness, wildfires have become a real concern, especially for those living in the wildland-urban interface. Matt Welander from West Mason Fire shared some tips with Explore Hood Canal.

Ready: Be Prepared

Start by gathering important documents, medications, and a list of contacts. Plan ahead by informing someone that you might need to stay with them if you need to evacuate

Set: Be Alert

When the alert level reaches a level two evacuation, it's time to load your car. Pack your medications and pet food, and make sure your go-bag is in the car. Be aware of fire apparatus and personnel entering your area. This is a clear signal that you should be ready to leave at a moment's notice.

Go: Act Early

When the evacuation order is given, the fire threat is imminent. Whether or not the fire reaches your home, leaving immediately is crucial for your safety and the firefighters'. Staying behind can hinder firefighting efforts and endanger lives. Although fire departments can't force you to leave, it is in your best interest to do so. Law enforcement will monitor evacuated areas, ensuring your belongings are protected.

Evacuating Pets and Larger Animals

Preparation is key for pet owners, particularly those with larger animals like horses. Start preparing your animals for evacuation early. If you can, trailer your horses to a friend's house during the "Ready" phase. This can prevent the added stress of trying to evacuate them during a crisis.

Special Considerations

If you have health issues such as COPD, emphysema, or bronchitis, or if you are elderly or less mobile, it's wise to evacuate early. Smoke can exacerbate health problems, making it much harder to evacuate safely later on. Leaving early ensures you aren't caught in a dangerous situation.

Muralist BriAnne Lesman Brightens Up Mason County With Her Work

Drive around Mason County for a little bit and you'll start to notice murals on many of the buildings in the county. BriAnne Lesman's first job was in 2015 at the El Sarape Cantina, and it's blossomed from there. Getting some input from the business owners helps her start the idea and after that, she's off and painting. Different aspects of Mason County end up in her art, including the shellfish, foliage, and Sasquatch.

Wildfire Preparedness Tips for Campers in Mason County

Wildfire Preparedness Tips for Campers in Mason County

As we welcome campers to Mason County this summer, it's crucial to remember that we are at heightened wildfire awareness. Wildfires can pose a significant risk, and everyone must stay vigilant. Matt Welander from West Mason Fire discusses some essential tips for staying safe during your camping trips.

Be Prepared: Ready, Set, Go!

When planning your camping trip, wildfire preparedness might not be top of mind, but it's essential. Matt emphasizes the importance of the "Ready, Set, Go" system, a three-level alert process designed to keep you safe:

1. Ready: When you arrive at your campsite, rake it out thoroughly to fireproof your area, like how you would your home. If there’s a fire nearby and you receive a "Ready" alert, start packing your belongings and know your exit routes.

2. Set: At this level, it's time to pack up your tent and load your car. Be prepared to leave the area quickly.

3. Go: Leave immediately if a "Go" alert is issued. If your tent is still up, leave it behind. Your safety is the priority.

Stay Sober and Alert

Always ensure you have a designated driver at your campsite during fire season. This is crucial for your safety and the safety of firefighters who may need to enter the area. Finding someone sober enough to drive if a fire breaks out unexpectedly is dangerous.

Nighttime Precautions and Communication

Fires can start at any time, including at night. If you’re camping in remote parts of the county with only one road in or out, having a paper map can be a lifesaver. It helps you understand your location and the quickest escape routes.

For communication, Matt recommends having a NOAA weather radio, which works even when cell phone service is unavailable. Most major media outlets on AM and FM radio will provide updates, so stay tuned to them for the latest information.

Know Your Surroundings

If you're camping in U.S. forests, make sure you know the road number and your exact location, such as the specific site at a campground like Browns Creek. This information is vital if you need to report a fire.

Enjoy and Stay Safe

Mason County offers incredible recreational opportunities, and we love having visitors enjoy our beautiful surroundings. However, your safety is our priority. Remember to:

• Keep your campsite clean and fireproof.

• Follow the "Ready, Set, Go" protocol.

• Stay informed through reliable communication channels.

By following these guidelines, you can ensure a safe and enjoyable camping experience in Mason County.

Elk Lakes Trail

By Craig Romano, Guide book author and guest columnist

Named for one of the Olympic Peninsula’s most majestic animals, the two small Elk Lakes located within the Hamma Hamma River Valley offer quiet wanderings and a chance to see their namesake. The Elk Lakes offer a great alternative to the nearby oft-crowded Lena Lakes. While this hike is short, the lake’s tranquil shoreline and surrounding old-growth forest invite lingering. Bird watching is good as well as fishing for rainbow trout. Rhododendrons add colorful bouquets to the forest in spring, while maples and cottonwoods brighten the forest with golden touches come autumn.

Hit the Trail

You can easily reach the lakes from a short spur off of Forest Road 2480. But I prefer hiking to the lakes following along a remnant of an old trail along Jefferson Creek. This gives you a longer and varied hike and a better appreciation for the area’s rugged landscape and how human activity has greatly impacted it. Reaching the trailhead for this approach however is via a rough road that only high clearance vehicles can negotiate. If that is not an option, you can always park at the beginning of the road and walk FR 2421 for 1.6 miles to the trailhead. The road traverses a recent cut offering excellent views of the Hamma Hamma Valley, making the extra mileage interesting.

The trail begins at a bend in the road and heads into a forest that was recently burned. In the early part of the last century the entire Jefferson Creek Valley was draped in old-growth forest. After World War II and up to the 1990s the area was intensively logged leaving only remnant stands of old-growth forest and just a small stretch of was once a long trail in the Eastern Olympics. But what survived made a delightful short hike in an area often overlooked by many hikers opting instead for the nearby Lena Lakes.

The beautiful old-growth forest remaining around the Elk Lakes almost entirely went up in flames in the Maple Fire of 2018. A group of timber poachers harvesting mature big-leaf maples in the area set the area ablaze when they set fire to a wasp nest in the base of a tree. The fire quickly spread torching 3300 acres and costing $4.5 million to combat. Two of the poachers were ultimately caught, brought to trial and given prison terms. Timber poaching remains a serious problem on the Olympic Peninsula. The Forest Service lacks the staff and resources to address it.

While the fire did some damage to the Elk Lake area, thankfully many of the older trees survived. Unfortunately the fire took a major toll on nearby Jefferson Ridge rendering the trail to its old lookout site nearly impassable now. Such a shame as that trail too offered a quiet alternative to many of the area’s nearby crowded trails.

Head up the trail traversing a dry hillside, several hundred feet above roaring Jefferson Creek. Born in the snowfields of Mount Ellinor and her rugged neighbors; the creek crashes through a steep and narrow canyon here before reaching the Hamma Hamma River. Pass through a mosaic burn on an up and down course before reaching cool old-growth forest.

The way then soon reaches a junction. Heading left will bring you to the upper trailhead. But for this suggested hike, you’ll be returning from that direction, so continue hiking straight through a grove of monster cedars coming to Elk Lake. Depending on the season the lake may be a wet grassy swale or a pretty reflecting pool. Regardless of water level, plenty of birdlife will be present.

Continue along the western shore before wandering along Jefferson Creek through more impressive old growth. The trail then terminates on FR 2401. You can retrace your steps, but I prefer making a loop by following the road left for 0.8 mile to another trail just after crossing Cedar Creek. But before heading down that trail back to Elk Lake, head right 0.2 mile on an oft overlooked and slightly brushy trail to pretty little Upper Elk Lake. This placid body of water offers beautiful reflections of nearby ridges and the surrounding forest.

Once you visit the Upper Lake pick up the trail near Cedar Creek and slightly descend to Elk Lake now hiking along its eastern shoreline. Pass some more big trees and come to a great shoreline area for casting a line or just admiring the area’s beauty. Then reach another junction.

The way right climbs and soon reaches the main trailhead on FR 2401. Continue left, soon crossing Jefferson Creek on large rocks. In spring and other periods of high water this may be difficult forcing you to retreat the way you came for a longer than anticipated hike. Just beyond the crossing reach a familiar junction. Here head right above the crashing creek retuning to your start.

The details

• Distance: 4.5 miles roundtrip

• Elevation Gain: 700 feet

• High Point: 1200 feet

• Difficulty: moderate

• Snow free: year round Trailhead Pass Needed: None

Notes: Road to Lower Trailhead (Elk Branch) is extremely rough requiring a high clearance vehicle.

GPS waypoints: Lower Trailhead: N47 34.759 W123 07.222

Main Trailhead: N47 34.267 W123 08.008

Features: kid-friendly, dog friendly, old-growth, rhododendrons, bird-watching, fishingLand Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 765-2200, fs.usda.gov/olympic

Recommended Guidebook: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Craig Romano, Mountaineers Books)

Trailhead directions: From Hoodsport travel north on US 101 north for 13.7 miles turning left at milepost 318 onto FR 25 (Hamma Hamma River Road). Then continue west for 6.4 miles and turn left onto FR 2480. Cross the Hamma Hamma River and in 0.2 mile turn right onto unsigned FR 2421 for the Lower Trailhead (high clearance only). Follow this rough road 1.6 miles to a pullout on your left where the road makes a sharp turn right. This is the trailhead. For the Main Trailhead, pass the FR 2421 junction and continue on FR 2480 for 3 more miles. Then turn right onto FR 2401, and proceed 2.5 miles to a spur on your right leading 0.1 to the Main Trailhead. The spur is steep and can be rough. You can park alongside FR 2401 and walk the spur to the trailhead.

Whale watching from the Shores in Hood Canal

Walking along the shores of Hood Canal and the waters of Hammersley Inlet you can spot many interesting marine creatures from the lowly (yet delicious) Olympic oyster to the lumbering California sealion.  Although not as dependable as catching a glimpse of a harbor seal, or a great blue heron, the sight of an orca (Orcinus orca) is perhaps the most rewarding.  

With newborn calves weighing as much as 400 lbs, orcas are the largest species within the oceanic dolphin family. Full grown female orcas may reach lengths of 18-21 feet and weigh as much as 9,000 lbs and males can get to be 21-24 feet and weigh as much as 12,000 lbs.  Because of their size these giants need to eat 150-250 pounds of food a day to survive.   

Usually traveling in multi-generational pods of two or more family groups, lead by older matriarchs (grandmas) these whales are strongly devoted to family.  

The matriarchs have been observed to aid in the raising of their grandchildren (in a way similar to human grandmothers) and, like human females, they live many years past their reproductive age. 

The eldest sons and daughters of matriarchs tend to stay with the family unit (or matriline). Researchers using specially adapted microphones hung underwater, have documented that each matriline has distinctive calls special to it and apparently understood within the pod.  

This has led some scientists to argue that orcas have dialects and languages, something that no other animals are documented as having (beyond humans).  

Orcas are found across the globe, usually favoring cold waters, but they swim to tropical waters to moult their skins. In the Pacific Northwest, researchers have documented three populations of orcas which have distinct feeding and social behaviors: the Transients who prey on other marine mammals, such as dolphins and seals;

The Residents who find sustenance primarily in chinook salmon; and the little understood offshore orca that are found from California to Alaska and are purported to eat fish and varieties of sharks. According to researchers there are no obvious biological reasons why these whales eat such specific food. 

In fact, this preference may be starving the chinook dependent Southern Resident whale population seen in the inland waters of the Salish Sea (Puget Sound, the San Juan Islands, and Georgia Strait), which are in such small numbers they are listed as endangered in both Canada and the United States. 

Researchers have been struggling to save these whales and understand why they do not diversify their feeding habits. The most interesting argument researchers have made is that the Southern Residents, although physically able to eat sea mammals or other fish, have established taboos within their groups that prohibit them – in an essence they have cultural constraints, such as seen amongst humans refusing pork or beef on cultural grounds. 

Additionally, Residents and Transients have been observed to actively avoid one another, which is reflected in the fact that the Transients tend to visit the waters of Southern Puget Sound between the months of March and September, when the Southern Residents make their migration out of the Southern Puget Sound area.  Genetic research has further revealed that there is no interbreeding between these two groups– almost as if they were a different species.  

The Southern Residents may be seen chasing the chinook on their upriver run during the fall from several easily accessibly points on shore: on Hammersley Inlet from Walker Park (near Shelton), on Totten Inlet from the Arcadia Point Boat Launch, on Case Inlet at Latimers Landing, and at the Allyn Waterfront Park.   

Along the Hood Canal orcas are more rare, but this Spring, a pod of Transients was spotted several times from the Hood Canal Bridge all the way down to Belfair. This group stayed in the area for quite a while much to the delight of the shore residents. 

Before you head out to look for whales, check out the many online resources provided by the Orca Network.  They offer a constantly updated list of orca and whale sightings.  In May the reports on the Orca Network Sightings orcanetwork.org logged orca sightings along Hood Canal from vantage points at Dabob Bay, Brinnon, Seabeck, Lilliwaup, Potlatch, Union, and Tahuya.   

If you plan to search from the shoreline a good pair of binoculars and a zoom lens are recommended. Look for sudden sprays of water and the tell-tale black dorsal fin.  If you are searching by boat, exercise caution and remember you are a guest in their waters.  

If you see a blow go slow, it is the law in the US to travel less than 7 knots and stay at least ½ mile away when traveling by boat near orcas. If the orcas come closer than 300 yards to your boat, you must turn off the engine, as the noise from the engine can confuse the whales and there are many accidents resulting from props and whale collisions.  Also fish finders and depth sounders should be turned off when not in use.  

http://www.orcanetwork.org

Three Months of Epic Summer Music Festivals On Hood Canal

Summers on Hood Canal are perfect for leisurely days relaxing on the beach surrounded by oyster banks or venturing into the Olympics for some forest bathing and to search for hidden swimming spots. Yet, if you find yourself craving a change of pace from nature in the coming months, be sure to check out the event schedule. Regardless of your musical preferences, there will undoubtedly be a weekend that will have you tapping your toes – all within minutes of the cedars and seals!

Beginning this June, Mason County comes alive with a vibrant music scene. From local talent to emerging artists and well-known bands, the music genres ranges from Bluegrass and Country to Reggae and Rock.

Start Planning Now.

We’ve outlined below the highlights of some of these great events happening June through September in our area. Don’t miss all the other great weekly music events hosted year round in the area including Hama Hama’s Music From the Shellpile (dates TBA), Hood Canalé’s live outdoor music events and so many more! Click here for local music venues

Be sure to book your accommodations now for the perfect weekend mix of music and scenery –– start making plans now!

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Save the DateS for the 2024 Line up!

Bryan Martin

June 29 | Shelton, WA

The Rev Country Music Festival (PASSED)

County music fans won’t want to miss this line up of rising stars at the first annual REV Country Music Festival held at the Ridge Motorsports Park in Shelton, WA. Held in conjunction with one of the largest and fastest superbike racing events in the Northwest, MotoAmerica.

The REV Country Music Festival takes place Saturday, June 29, doors open at 4:30 PM with show times from 5:30 - 9:00 PM. A stand-alone event, the Ridge has invited four bands for one night only: Bryan Martin, Restless Road, Ashland Craft, and Mae Estes.

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JULY 12-14 | Shelton, WA

19th Annual BLUEGRASS FROM THE FOREST

Filling a 15 acre forest-lined park with music, workshops and campers, Bluegrass from the Forest has become a staple on the Northwest Bluegrass circuit. Hosted by the local Kristmas Town Kiwanis, with the goal to help local youth, along with workshops and “tastings” between band sets, the festival hosts two stages, food, drink, vendors, and plenty of level tent and RV sites on the grass. Geared towards both families and individuals of all ages, the Chick Rose Kids School of Bluegrass is offered through the Festival weekend for no additional charge. Beginning on the Saturday morning youth are divided into groups according to their musical ability, they are coached by advanced musicians to create a special performance Saturday on the main stage.

The Festival’s program features four major concerts throughout the three days highlighting top talent throughout the nation. The music ranges from traditional bluegrass to the more progressive styles. During the downtimes the event features a variety of instrument and vocal workshops.

Saturday night features the famous "midnight hot-dogs" after the country dance. All the campfire jamming halts momentarily as the pickers and their families join the musicians for a midnight feast in the main tent.

2024 Band Line Up

Northwest Bluegrass fans know Jacob Jolliff for his fantastic mandolin since he was a teenager. At college Jolliff studied jazz, Celtic and other intricate musical forms that influenced his musical versatility. In 2012 he won the National Mandolin Championship in Kansas. Jacob played and recorded with Yonder Mountain String Band for five years. These days, his main focus is The Jacob Jolliff Band. The band has produced two albums and are traveling from New York to headline at Bluegrass from the Forest.

Widely recognized as one of the most exciting young bands in acoustic music, Crying Uncle Band from California plays a unique mix of bluegrass, jazz, and modern originals. They are the recipient of the 2023 International Bluegrass Music Association’s Momentum Band of the Year award.

From Vancouver, BC, The Lonesome Town Painters Band has a sound that harkens back to the raw and ragged edge of the genre. While they draw from the golden era, it’s their original songs that show just how far they have come.

Known to roots music fans for their soulful harmonies, Caleb & Reeb play driving dance tunes, classic original songs and commitment to the raw truth of rural American music, these two have helped inspire the remarkable growth of the old time community in the Northwest.

Heartbreak Pass from Idaho have long been known as one of the best vocalists and bass bands in the inland Northwest bluegrass scene. Ms Bonnie is the ‘Rock’ this band is built around. Stan Hall holds down the guitar duties, vocals and harmony. Randy Engle, brings his mando and guitar, along with incredible vocals, to round out this trio.

Based in Union, WA in Union City Council Bluegrass Band was created out of their love of traditional bluegrass. They are quickly becoming a favorite around the Pacific NW bluegrass festival circuit.

As the host band for Saturday night's Country Dance, The Bar-K Buckaroos play traditional western swing dance music in the style of Bob Wills and his Texas Playboys. They bring their love of Bluegrass, Country and Swing, Jazz, Blues and Raggae’ to form a great evening of western swing and 20-40’s era swing music.

Runaway Train Bluegrass Band is the host band for Bluegrass from the Forest festival. This traditional Bluegrass band is a local favorite.

Save the date for a very affordable weekend of music and fun! For more information and to purchase tickets visit bluegrassfromtheforest.com. Tickets purchased online are held at the front gate of the festival.

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JULY 17-21 | UNION

2024 Saltwater Songwriter Festival

Some of the nation’s top songwriters, including Grammy winners and hitmakers, will be descending on Union in July. This year’s Peace, Love & Union Saltwater Songwriter Festival is technically the first annual, converting last year’s songwriter series of the same name into a single long weekend festival that warms up with a July 16 pub crawl and kicks off with the free and open-to-the-public “Girls Just Wanna Have Rum” women singer-songwriter showcase at Alderbrook Golf Club on July 17. The ticketed portion of the festival takes place at the historic Robin Hood Villages Resort from Thursday afternoon through Saturday night and features songwriters ranging from local to legendary, topped by two Grammy winners, Paul Overstreet and Kristian Bush. Also headlining are Mishka, the Wheeland Brothers, Thom Shepherd, Danny O’Keefe, Caitlin Cannon, Stephanie Anne Johnson, and Stoney Gabel. They will be joined by local artists, Honey Babe, Kitty Mae, Cailley Robinson, and David Ashby.

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AUGUST 16-18 | UNION

HoodStock 2024

Hoodstock is coming to Union WA. on both land and sea for three days of music on Hood Canal. Music will take place at several locations in Union. View the festival lineup and start planning your most epic weekend of the summer!

Attendees ride aboard private vessels or watercraft to view the show. On shore at the marina there will be accessible art displays and live music for those not aboard the vessels on the water. Hoodstock is an all ages festival.

Hoodstock is truly an event that brings together local musicians, artists and supporters in a celebration of music, art and education. It’s a celebration of community, giving back, and preserving a natural treasure – Hood Canal. The festival's tagline, "Creativity, Expression, and Community," embodies this spirit that aims to bring together the vast musical talent of the area and support local non-profits with a focus on arts education and environmental sustainability. Visit the Hoodstock website for more information and schedule and follow on their Facebook page.

But wait, there’s more!

Check out these great events also happening in the area. The Hama Hama Banjo Rama sells out fast so be sure to reserve tickets. OysterFest’s on site accommodations fill up – so be sure to make reservations sooner rather than later!

Banjo Rama
September 14-15, Hama Hama Oyster Farm link
Live music from 12-6 - lots of great bands on the waterfront!

OysterFest
October 5-6, Shelton WA link
Live music all weekend on two stages.

Discover magic in the Guillemot Stump House

Story: Stella Wenstob; Photos: George Stenberg

Nestled in a 200-year old maple grove, just 4.5 miles outside of Seabeck is a well-hidden gem, Guillemot Cove Nature Reserve. With several easy loop trails and beach access offering views of the Hood Canal and the Olympic Mountains, this park is a great place to bring the whole family!

“Imaginations are inspired by the Stump House, a large hollowed out Western Red Cedar stump that has been outfitted with a door way, window openings and a split-shingle roof.“

Inside the stump house | photo: George Stenberg

Local legend holds that the Stump House was originally built by Dirty Thompson an escaped convict.  The notches carved in the large stump also gives evidence to springboard logging practices, which dates the stumps creation to the 1890s. 

Stump house showing the springboard holes | photo George Stenberg

Loggers would carve notches in the tree to insert springboards above the flare of the roots on the tree so that they could stand on them while they laboriously cut the tree down with large handsaws.  

Boardwalks mark the trail to the Stump House | photo: George Stenberg

The park was originally a labor of love of the Reynolds family who bought the property in 1939.  Avid bird watchers, the Reynolds renamed the cove “Guillemot” after the black and white birds that frequented the cove.  In 1993, after many years of enjoying and caring for the land the family sold the property to the Trust for Public Land to preserve the natural beauty. 

photo: George Stenberg

Planning your trip to the Stump House

The trails in the Guillemot Cove Nature Reserve are all natural surface trails. The 184 acre park can be found at 19235 Stavis Bay Road NW, Seabeck. The park feature saltwater beach access and walking trails. No restroom facilities available at this site. Dogs are not permitted. The Reserve has a “Pack it in – Pack it out” policy. Please bring a bag or other container for trash and take it when you leave.

Directions: From Hwy.3, take Newberry Hill exit; travel to Seabeck Holly Road; turn right. Drive to Miami Beach Road; turn right - drive to "Y"; veer left onto Stavis Bay Road. Drive 4.5 miles to the entrance and parking lot.

The Guillemot Cove Reserve is managed by Kitsap County Parks | Download map and trail guide

Fjordin Crossin embraces tradition

Fjordin Crossin embraces an old world Scandinavian tradition of the spirit “aquavit”, with a series of unique events at the beach in Hoodsport, WA – a nordic parade, a barrel crossing, a family-friendly paddle race, drinks, vendors and food and, after the tide pushes the celebration back to the shore, the after-party continues on the streets of Hoodsport.

 

An Aquavit tradition

In 1805 a special brand of aquavit, Linie aquavit, crossed the Equator from Norway bound for the East Indies, unsold it returned to Norway in 1807. It turned out that the sea voyage had a positive effect on the taste of the spirit. The old sailing ships have vanished, but Linie Aquavit still crosses the Equator on the deck of a ship and returns via Australia. It has become a celebrated aquavit tradition.

Saturday, June 22, the Hardware Distillery will once again launch a barrel of aged dill aquavit to cross Hood Canal from Hoodsport to Tahuya and back. Although the journey will not take four months (the current sea rocking schedule of a traditional cask of Linie), each mouthful will contain the memory of its fjord voyage. 

Paddle the Canal Challenge

Over the last half decade it has grown to include a non-motorized paddle across the canal challenge hosted by Hood Canal Events.  Participants can bring their own watercraft, rent on site, or, if they have no desire to paddle but want to be part of the excitement --book passage on Lady Alderbrook  from Alderbrook Resort, to cross Hood Canal alongside the barrel.  On board the Lady Alderbrook aquavit cocktails are served, and participants take in the day’s festivities from the center of the action. Purchase advance tickets from Alderbrook Resort and Spa (Union).

Ready to compete?

Learn more information, how to register and sign your required waiver. Kids 9 and under are FREE but must still register. This year's prizes include a night's stay in Hoodsport, a gift certificate to Hardware Distillery (get your Aquavit asap!), and goodies from our vendors. ​REGISTRATION FEE : May 25th - June 22nd, 2024, $39 adults/$25 kids (10-17)

To celebrate the launch, the Paddle the Canal “race” follows the barrel journey in canoes, kayaks, SUPs and small sailboats. Bring your own boat or rent from Hood Canal Adventures. The Paddle has partnered with HCE to offer same day kayak rentals onsite. Singles and Doubles available in advance.

Shore Side Activities

On shore there is plenty to do including vendors, oysters, a parade, artisans and children's crafts. The Aquavit Grotto serves cocktails on the beach as they await the arrival of the tide which will eventually send them to higher ground and move the events into the main street of Hoodsport where attendees will find additional activities offered by local businesses.

Schedule

11:00 AM  – Food, libations, and vendors open at the Hoodsport Dock. Paddle the Canal registration open.

12:00 PM – Passengers board the Lady Alderbrook in Union if they are viewing the event that way. The Lady Alderbook will cruise for 2 hours and join the flotilla of vessels escorting the barrel across the Canal. During the Cruise you will be served the Fjord Mist Cocktail, using the Hardware Distillery Aquavit. Ticket price: $65 per person; boarding: 12:00 PM;cruise: 12:30-3:00 PM. Reserve Tickets for off set event.

12:40 PM  – Parade from the Distillery to the dock with the barrel of Aquavit. Led by Scandinavian musicians.
1:00 PM   – Crossing the Fjord begins: Barrel of aged Dill Aquavit travels from the Port of Hoodsport toward Tahuya and back, and when it returns, the Aquavit has been Fjordin Crossin. The Paddle the Canal challenge begins.Family and pet friendly paddle comprised of canoes, kayaks, SUPs and/or small sailboats.  The Lady Alderbrook arrives.  Guests on the boat cheer on Paddle participants, and enjoy Hardware Distillery aquavit cocktails.
2:00 PM    – Award ceremony and prizes for the Paddle Challengers.
3:00 PM   – After party in Hoodsport.  Visit the shops, restaurants, distillery and brewery.

Lady Alderbrook will join the race (as a spectator) – register to join the two hour cruise. Book here

A Case Study of Islands in the Inlet

Case Inlet, at the mariner’s northeastern edge of Mason County, is home to many magical island getaways. Reach Island (AKA Treasure Island), verdant Stretch Island, secretive Herron Island, tiny McMicken Island, and Harstine Island all have interesting histories and unique characters.

The water access provided by Case Inlet linked the early forestry and settlement farming of this area to Tacoma and Olympia. In the beginning Squaxin dugout canoes, row boats and temperamental sailboats were the main transportation. Small side-wheel freight ships (powered by coal, wood, and later diesel), known as the Mosquito Fleet, came to replace these early methods. They transported freight and passengers, shipped milled lumber, and even towed logs, connecting these remote communities and homesteads. 

Reach Island

The first island we encounter heading from north to south down Case Inlet is Reach Island. The entirety of Reach Island was pre-empted and homesteaded by Joseph Pickford in 1885. By 1905, it was an established farm run by the Zizz family with cows, chickens, and fruit trees. Little farms like this were a major part of the Washington economy. Grapevines early on became important players in the agricultural scene of Case Inlet, or as it came to be known in the mid-1920s – the “grape belt of Washington.”

Stretch Island

Stretch Island saw the first efforts of grape growing on the inlet. Civil War veteran, Lambert Evans is credited with introducing the first concord grapevines to the island 150 years ago this year. Adam Eckert arriving in 1889 developed these into Washington’s own hybrid the Island Belle. This purply-red variety was hardier and ripened more successfully in the coastal climate.

Freight ships, such as the Skookum Chief would transport the Eckert Fruit Company’s fruit juice and grapes packed in round 6-pound wooden baskets to market in Shelton, Olympia, Tacoma, and Seattle.

After Adam Eckert passed away his lands and extensive grapevines were purchased by Charles Somers in 1918. Somers in partnership with his brother Frank expanded the business and began shipping to San Francisco. In 1922, the town of Detroit changed its name to Grapeview to reflect this growing resource.

In 1933, when the Federal laws known as Prohibition were lifted, Charles Somers was the very first applicant to be granted a winery permit in the 15th District (this included Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and Montana). St. Charles Winery started small with a French vintner overseeing the first casks of the only 3,000 gallons produced. Charles Somers’ sons Charles W. "Bill" Somers and Howard Somers joined the family business and by 1935 they were producing 38,000 gallons. Bill oversaw growing the fruit and harvesting and Howard (who specialized in chemical engineering at UW) took over the fermentation.

Charles Somers Vineyard

Vineyards throughout the area, especially on Harstine Island and along Pickering Passage added to their supply of grapes. In 1955, St. Charles processed over 500 tons of grapes from Mason County and another almost 300 tons from Yakima Valley. Although by 1965, the St. Charles winery had sold and the wine with it, there still exists on the Somers’ property on Stretch Island the original vine planted by Lambert Evans in 1872. Though not as popular, local vineyards still grow Island Belle and u-pick grape yards were a popular fall pastime until the 1980s. Hoodsport Winery still ferments Puget Sound Island Belle grapes. The wine is described as “a red wine bursting with flavors of fresh raspberries and cherries. A perfect wine for picnics and barbecues.” 

Harstine Island

Just a little South of Stretch Island is Harstine Island. At over 18 squares miles it is the third largest island in the inland Puget Sound (after Bainbridge and Vashon), yet it is a sleepy wooded island with a population barely touching 1,500. Historically, residents were pioneer loggers (like Robert G. Jarrell of Jarrell Cove State Park fame), farmers, oystermen, fishermen and opportunistic captains (and many residents were all the above). Since the Island was only connected to the mainland in 1969 by bridge, traveling by water was very important to all aspects of life. Many famed Mosquito fleet captains lived here, building business and homes. The historic Community Hall was built in 1914.

According to the Harstine Island Community Club website, easy trees were harvested along the shores for lumber which was towed by Ed Cowan’s Levina and Raymond and John Haskell’s 40-foot launch the Marie to the sawmill at Taylor Bay.

The Community Hall held many popular dances and events with people coming by boat all the way from Agate, Stadium and Vaughn to attend. To this day it is a popular gathering spot for the Harstine community.

In 1922, the county established a ferry service crossing Pickering Passage. The 40-foot scow, the Island Belle (named for the popular grape) was their first ferry. She was built by Ira Libby of Hammersley Inlet with the help of Earl Harriman. She was designed from a ferry in operation on Lake Crescent.

With two load aprons she could carry three cars at a time, which would drive through on one end and unload on the other. She made the crossing in 30 minutes with her Fairbanks-Morse 10-horsepower engine, which drove by belt two side-paddle wheels.

She was replaced in 1929 by Earl Harriman who built his own log ferry to increase the capacity. Donette Glaser remembers that “ Earl was a pioneer of ferries. In those days, whenever we needed a new ferry Earl would tow a few logs and start building a new conveyance.” (Shelton Mason County Journal, March 26, 1959). This was soon replaced by the County’s Harstine I , and then the Harstine II in 1945 (eight car capacity).

Earl Harriman and his wife Mabel (daughter of Captain John Haskell above) were a staple of the community. Earl drove the ferry for 27 years and Mabel assisted him deck-handing when necessary. Mabel was also the chief local correspondent of Harstine Island, Pickering and Agate for the Shelton Mason County Journal for many years.

Captain Glenn Yates ran the Harstine II on her last crossing on Sunday, June 22, 1969 at 2 PM as the new Harstine bridge opening was celebrated with a parade, boat flotilla, and punch at the Harstine Community Hall. The traffic lined up on the mainland side of the bridge was further than any local had ever seen at a ferry wait. As the Captain’s wife, Carmen Yates, remarked at the time:

 “The Island… saw its first major traffic jam that day. If anyone would have told me 25 years ago when I came to the island that one day I’d be involved in a traffic snarl that would take three deputies to unravel I would have just laughed at such an idea….And talk about waiting in line for a ferry How about that line that formed to go across the bridge? It extended from the bridge all the way past the ferry-landing as far as any of the longest ferry lines ever reached.” (Shelton Mason County Journal June 26, 1969).

With the new bridge, development on the island picked up as new residents and vacationers were attracted to the island life. This coincided with a popular developmental trend during the late 50s to 60s for logging companies such as Talbot & Sons Ltd. and Weyerhaeuser to revitalize their unique land holdings into private residential gated communities.

The entirety of Reach and Herron Island and the northern tip of Harstine Island experienced such development. Herron Island is only accessible by a private ferry from the Kitsap Peninsula, and you must be endorsed by a community member to visit. The development on Treasure (Reach) and Harstine Islands, however, are much more public as both are connected to the mainland by bridge and many cabins and houses in the community are available for short term rental. Much of Harstine Island offer excellent island diversions for a dat trip.

A Day on the Islands

Harstine Island is home to the Wild Felid Advocacy Center. Scheduled tours gets you right you right up close with about 50 wild cats from 13 species including a pair of tigers named Suri and Tabbi, a cougar, different leopards, and many others from five continents around the world. Visit wildfelids.org for more information on the different tours you can reserve.

On Harstine Island Jarrell Cove State Park is popular with boaters and campers alike; less developed Harstine Island Park offers tranquil beach time; and McMicken Island Marine Park offers a unique low tide hike across a tidal land bridge.

Not to be forgotten, Stretch Island has one state park which is accessible only by water. Community, history, great enterprises, and the importance of bridges all make up the waters of this meandering "Case" study on an Inlet’s islands.

Events Around Case Inlet

Do the Dosewallips

Craig Romano, author

Dosewallips State Park consists of more than 1000 acres of prime wildlife habitat along the Dosewallips River at its delta on Hood Canal. Well-known for its year-round family-friendly campground (complete with yurts) and excellent fishing and shell fishing opportunities, the park also contains a wonderful network of hiking trails. Saunter out to wildlife rich tidal wetlands on Hood Canal or explore quiet groves of mature forest graced with thickets of rhododendrons and cascading creeks. Hike along the glacier-fed Dosewallips River too. And retrace the route of an old railroad grade while sleuthing for relics of the area’s bygone logging days.

Photo credit: Craig Romano

Hit the Trail

There are nearly five miles of trails in Dosewallips Park to explore with your family. Most of them are interconnected allowing for some loop options. An excellent 3.6 mile loop around a good portion of the park’s periphery can be made by following the Maple Valley and Steam Donkey Trails. 

Start this loop hike from the ranger station by walking a short distance northwest up the dirt road signed for the Maple Valley Trail. After passing through the Meadow Group Camp, reach the Maple Valley Trailhead. Now head up the trail and soon come along the Dosewallips River. 

Legend has it that Dos-wail-opsh was a Twana Indian who was turned into a mountain, forming the source of the Dosewallips River. From his lofty position in the Olympic Mountain wilderness, this transformed Native American did well by creating one of the peninsula’s most wild and scenic rivers. 

The Twana once had a village at the mouth of the river on Hood Canal. In 1855 the Treaty of Point No Point resulted in many of the Twana people being relocated to the small Skokomish Reservation located at the mouth of the South Fork of the Skokomish River.

Hike along the river through a forest of cedars, cottonwoods and of course—maples, both bigleaf and vine. In fall the maples add touches of gold to the forest. Scan the forest for elk. They are prolific in this area and are frequently sighted in the state park. If you don’t see any of this hike, you’ll probably see plenty of signs of their presence.

Photo Credit: Craig Romano

Continue along the trail hugging a steep slope above a river channel. The way then reaches a junction with the Rhody Cut-off Trail. You’ll be returning on that trail for this loop—so continue right. The way now gently descends to a bridged crossing of cascading Phantom Creek. 

Then it’s time to climb again as the trail ascends a steep bluff and moves away from the river. Washington State Parks has been working with several agencies to greatly increase the size of this park to protect more riverfront. Once public access can be secured, there are plans to construct a trail along the river from the state park to national forest land about five miles upriver. Much of the new protected river corridor will be included in the state park.

Photo Credit: Craig Romano

The Maple Valley Trail now bends southward skirting an old cut along the park’s current boundary. At about one mile from your start it reaches a fire road. The road can be used as a short-cut back to the campground.

To continue the loop proceed straight on the Steam Donkey Trail. Steam donkeys were steam powered winches used by loggers in the early twentieth century for yarding and loading downed timber. 

Here as well as throughout much of the region timber was transported by rail to sawmills or to docks where it was floated to mills

Photo Credit: Craig Romano

Running parallel to the Steam Donkey Trail and reached by walking just a short distance east on the Fire Road is the Izett Grade Trail. This trail follows a half mile stretch of an old railroad grade. The Izett Logging Company had constructed five miles of railroad in this area  in the late 1890s. Logs were then transported to Hood Canal and floated to a mill in Seabeck. The Izett Grade Trail eventually reconnects with the Steam Donkey Trail and shortens the loop by only 0.1 mile.

The Steam Donkey trail continues south along the state park boundary gently climbing through maturing second growth. The trail passes a large fir struck by lightning in 2001 before crossing Phantom Creek. It then comes to a small bridge whimsically named the On Your Arse Crossing. The way then spans another cascading creek before cresting a ridge. It then begins a long gentle descent following an old road grade through maturing timber. After passing the southern end of the Izett Grade Trail the loop reaches a small dammed pool that once provided water to power the Izett Logging Company’s steam donkeys. 

Photo Credit: Craig Romano

The trail then once again comes to the Fire Road. Cross the road and continue straight passing part of another stretch of old railroad bed. The logging railroads here were decommissioned in 1913 shortly after the logging company’s founder James Izett passed away. The trail next descends into a gulch coming to a junction. You can shorten the loop by heading right reaching the park road after crossing the short metal bridge

The recommended loop heads left now following the Rhody Cut-off Trail. It soon makes a bridged crossing of a creek shaded by attractive cedars; then veers left at a junction where a spur trail heads to a group camp. The trail then climbs a low ridge draped with rhododendrons. You’ll want to return to this stretch of trail in May or June. The Rhody-Cut-off Trail then loses elevation returning to the Maple Valley Trail. Return to your start by retracing a short stretch of trail to your right.

If you’ve got time and energy leftover, head over to the park’s North Tidal Trail. Follow this 0.3 mile trail to an observation deck near where the Dosewallips River drains into Hood Canal, creating a productive delta and estuary. Scan this ecologically rich ecosystem for seals and a wide array of birds.

Additional Details 

Dog welcome but must be leashed while on the trail.

Land Agency Contact:
Dosewallips State Park

Recommended Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168S; State park map available at park ranger station.

Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 

Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, drive US 101 north for 40 miles (From Quilcene drive US 101 south for 12 miles) to Dosewallips State Park entrance at milepost 307. Turn left (west) into camping entrance and proceed .3 mile to parking near ranger station. 

Day-use parking is also available at picnic area and North Tidal Area Trailhead, trailhead facilities here include: privy, picnic area, ranger station, campground, and potable water.

50 Ways to Fill Your Days on Hood Canal

You probably don't need any urging – just enjoying one of the many parks and beaches or watching the wildlife in the water is enough for most visiting Hood Canal. But just in case you need a few ideas here's a couple MORE to inspire you – Check out things to do for even more great suggestions.

#1. Hit the Beach

Hood Canal to Hope Island, it’s surprising how many beach access options there are.  Pack a picnic, you’ll want to explore a while.

#2. Take a Hike

From a quiet city trail behind Shelton, forest walk at Twanoh State Park Trail (2.3 miles EASY) or Theler Wildlife Refuge (3.5 miles) where boardwalks over wetlands reveal flora and fauna.  Here’s a list of great hiking spots around the Canal. Need a map? Try this link.

#3. Catch a Drift

Area lakes are stocked with trout and steelhead each Spring. Stop in at Verles for all the tips and tools. Fishing is the universal excuse to relax. Salmon season starts on Hood Canal and South Puget Sound in July and area lakes are stocked with trout and steelhead each Spring. Get your license at these local locations or online.

#4. Dive in the Canal

Giant octopi, friendly & curious wolf eels, and swarms of ancient rock cod add to the wonder of scuba adventures in Hood Canal. Scuba lessons, rentals (including air), and charters are available. The newly opened YSS diving in Hoodsport offers a whole series of certifications to "get your feet wet."

#5. Take the Leap

Views of the fjord and the Olympics and a seven minute free fall from 13,000 feet will change your perspective. Tandem flights $185-$215. Call Kapowsin Air Sports (360) 432-8000.

#6. Fly a Kite

Pick an afternoon low tide on Hood Canal and take advantage of the winds. The Port of Shelton (Hwy 101) has plenty of open fields.

#7. Dip your Paddle

Hood Canal Adventure has kayaks for rent by the hour, day or week, and they'll deliver to your home or rental! and recently Mike’s Beach Resort teamed up with a local kayak company in Lilliwaup — learn more here.

#8. Low tide wonders

The Canal and South Puget Sound expose amazing creature wonders at low tide. Spring is an especially amazing time to make discoveries – remember to replace your rocks carefully after flipping — that’s someone’s home!

#9.  Find a Fall

The waterfalls are delightful year round —and it’s fun to swim in the pools in warmer weather. Some waterfalls and rivers can be very dangerous with undertows; be aware of hazards and watch children or inexperienced swimmers.

Our favorites:

• Murhut Falls

• Rocky Brook Falls

#10. Get a new View

Soaring 420 feet above the Skokomish River, the High Steel Bridge (1929)  is the highest steel truss arch in Washington. Follow Skokomish Valley Rd from U.S. 101 to bridge.

#11. Launch a Boat

Take the boat out and explore the islands and passages from Case Inlet on South Puget Sound, Hope Island near Arcadia Point Boat Launch and, of course through all the waterways and the Canal!  Check out this list of boat launches and water access under fishing.

#12. Dine waterside

Our restaurants are back to normal with many having dining indoors and other offering take-out or curbside. Try the Hook & Fork at the nion City Market for fresh oysters and a changing seasonal with a GREAT view!

#13. Slurp!

Hama Hama Oyster Co., north of Lilliwaup, is open year round. Eat oysters – raw, baked and grilled, or try the crab cakes! The views alone will excite you.

The Taylor Shellfish retail store, South of Shelton is open daily for clams, oysters, geoduck and mussels – all harvested fresh in local waters!

#14. Pick a Peak

The Olympic National Forest and the Olympic National Park offer great climbing for all skill levels. Up for a challenge? Try the less visited but fulfilling Wagonwheel hike.

#15. Take a Hike

How about checking out the Big Loop Trail around Lake Cushman. Or if you are feeling more adventurous — check out Mildred Lakes.

#16. Run!

The Huff in Puff trail in Shelton is a great place to start but there are lots of beautiful trail run areas too. Consider participating in many of the seasonal runs that are back on the schedule again.

#17. Sip

Stottle Winery and Hoodsport Winery in Hoodsport; Mosquito Fleet Winery in Belfair; and Walter Dacon, Shelton, all have plenty of locally made beverages to go or to sip on site.

#18. Ice cream fix

For the perfect day include a scoop or two of locally made Olympic Mountain Ice Cream. Pick up a pint of Oly Mtn. Ice Cream fix at these Hood Canal & South Puget Sound locations.

#19. Bike the Fjord

Trails in the Olympic National Forest vary from challenging to easy gravel roads. Combine trails and roads to create loops that offer a variety of forests, streams and panoramic vistas.  

#20. Ride the Current

Launch a kayak at the Shelton Marina on outgoing tides and ride currents in Hammersley Inlet to Arcadia Point. Lunch at Hope Island Park and return with the incoming current!

#21. Canal views

From every spot on the road looping Hood Canal you will find inspiring and rejuvenating view of the mountains and maybe even catch a glimpse of a whale or seal.

#22. Shell Creations

Head to a Hood Canal beach for the whitest oyster and clam shells perfect for the guest room soap dish – ask before taking, but most won't mind!

#23. Find a Lake

There is no shortage of accessible and open lakes throughout the area.  Lake Cushman has plenty of great swimming spots!

#24. Hole in One

From the award winning Salish Cliffs Golf Club in Kamilche,  Alderbrook Golf & Yacht Club in Union, Lake Limerick, Lake Cushman Golf Course, and Lake Land Village Golf Course in Allyn  – all offer majestic views of the area with plenty of space for everyone. Click here for golfing options.

Check out the ScenicWA article on this fun excursion.

#25. Ride the Rails

Peddle powered rail rides with Vance Creek Railriders. Opening in May, pedal the rails on the decommissioned Simpson Logging rail line for a 12-mile round trip work out! As you pedal the multi-seat "railrider" along the track you will have the opportunity to see wildlife, old growth and new forests as well as diverse meadows teeming with wild flowers, moss, and ferns.

#26. Motorsports

Navigate 23,000 acres of working forest, Tahuya State Forest, networked by extensive and winding trails,there's has something for every adrenaline junkie.

#27.  Forage!

New amongst the many activities offered by Hood Canal Adventures is guided mushroom foraging.

#28. Glamp On

From Canal beach side glamour picnic, or an overnight trip - check out the glamping opportunities around Hood Canal!

#29. Geocache Hunt

Start at Alderbrook Resort and Spa, experience the high-tech treasure hunt as you explore the resort. Check out a clue book and a Garmin Handheld GPS and search for hidden containers leading to prizes!

#30. Read a Book!

 Never out of style and great for some social distancing. Here’s a few ideas to get you going!

#31. Take a S'more Break

This should be #1... be sure to remember the chocolate, graham crackers and marshmallows -- wouldn't be the same without the S'mores!

#32. Run with the Salmon

Visit one of the many fish hatcheries on Hood Canal! Visit fws.gov for information on area hatcheries.

#33. Potlatch Brewery for a Pint

New to Hoodsport is the Potlatch Brewery. Visit their tasting room on Hwy 101 in the center of town to relax after a hike. High Steel Brewery in Shelton also has some local beers that are gaining high acclaims!

#34. Take your Dog on a Hike

Check out this list of area hikes where Fido is welcome to tag along.

#35. Gyro on the Canal

Sunset Beach Grocery & Deli near Belfair on SR 106 is claimed as being the best kept secret and great for a quick take out menu item.

#36. For the Birds

The Theler Wetlands, Skokomish Delta, Duckabush, Dosewallips and Hamma Hamma are great places to catch glimpes of our resident and visiting avian community! Check out the local birding spots.

#37. Sleep under the Stars

Around every corner you will find a great place to pitch a tent.

#38. Roast the Beans

Urraco Coffee in Shelton roasts all their beans on site in their quaint and friendly cafe on 7th and Cota. The drive through is quick and friendly. Coffee available by the pound as well. Urraco is also serving coffee at their location on Steamboat Island and in Hoodsport at the Fjord Café.

#39. EAT MORE oysters!

Oysters have high levels of zinc that helps our bodies fight viruses. Catch your own or visit Hama Hama and Taylor Shellfish and the Fjord Oyster Bank to pick up clams as well.

#40. Get a Carve On

Stop in at the Bear in A Box,  Allyn for chainsaw artwork by George Kenny and his team. Feeling like a lumberjack? Sign up to learn how to sculpt a squatch with a chainsaw! Get the details here!

#41. Hydro Savvy

Check out the first hydroelectric wheel on the fjord. Dalby Waterwheel is located on SR 106 between Cameo Boutique and Alderbrook Resort.

#42. Chuck a disc!

The Shelton Springs Disc Golf Course in Shelton just recently recieved top ratings. Visit masoncountydiscgolfassociation for details on all the local courses.

#43. Pizza Attack

 In Shelton call Dominos or Westide Pizza on First Street or head up the Railroad Taproom on Railroad Ave for some authentic Italian flavors and a huge selection of brews on tap. All offer take out and you can call head to get your order prepared ahead of time.

#44.  Squatch Watch

With over 22 sightings in Mason County alone - chances of catching a glimpse get higher each year.  Keep your eyes peeled and your camera ready for that money shot!  Learn more

#45. Visit Tollie

The Shelton Visitor Center is in at this historic timber train. It was recently restored by volunteers so stop by the unmanned Caboose for area maps and be sure to get your picture with Tollie the engine. A historic logging locomotive (1924) operated in Mason County for Simpson Logging. Designed by Ephraim Shay, the locomotive negotiated heavy grades and curves. Tollie is joined by Caboose No.700, a 1920s log car.

#46. What's 'Sup?

A great way to explore the canal.

#47. Experience the Fjord Spirit

Using water from the Olympics, The Hardware Distillery, Hoodsport, offers spirits in an ambient tasting room and if you want to swing by quick to pick up some great spirits — they will prepare your order in advance and meet you curbside.

#48. Watch for Whales

Each year Hood Canal and South Puget Sound enjoy visits from orcas and grays. Follow their arrivals on the orcanetwork online.

#49. Beach Walk

Gather up the family and the buckets and head to the low tide for a giant aquarium that beats any confined exhibit. You’ll et wet and muddy but will walk with memories to last a lifetime!

#50. JUST R-E-L-A-X!

We have some of the cleanest air and water in the country, friendly people and gorgeous scenery everywhere.

Wagonwheel Lake Hike features alpine views and solitude

By Craig Romano
Craig Romano, is an author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks along with Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition (Mountaineers Books), including 136 hikes on the Olympic Peninsula. craigromano.com

Utilizing tight switchbacks and no switchbacks at all, the Wagonwheel trail makes a grueling ascent up steep forested slopes. It’s a workout. There are some good, albeit limited views along the way. But you’ll probably feel short changed for the effort. In that case, summon your second wind and continue hiking heading up even steeper terrain to emerge at an unassuming peak granting sweeping views of craggy peaks, deep valleys, and some of the wildest and rugged terrain in the state.

"Old-growth forest, solitude, and alpine views await after a grueling ascent."

Hit the Trail

Sharing its start with the Staircase Rapids Loop and North Fork Skokomish River, don’t fret if the parking lot is packed. Almost all of those vehicles belong to hikers heading to those two other trails. Why not Wagonwheel Lake? Perhaps the sign at the trailhead does its job discouraging folks. It states that you’ll climb 3,200 feet in 2.9 miles followed by “Very Steep!” But even that assessment doesn’t correctly portray the magnitude of steepness  of this trail. 

The trail is gentle for a short stretch at the beginning and ending but still leaving nearly 2,800 feet of elevation gain within two miles. Yep—that’s very steep indeed!

Regardless of the fair warning, many hikers intent on reaching the lake ignore it or underestimate their fitness level and attempt this trail. And all too many of them poop out resigning themselves to accept that despite the trail’s short length—elevation gain can be a leveler! But for those of you who accept this hike as a challenge, take note. 

The lake isn’t exactly one of the most stunning places in the Olympics. You may question if it was worth all of that sweat and toil. If your goal was a good workout in a natural environment—or perhaps a chance to commune deep in the woods all alone—then, yes it was worth it.

If it’s breathtaking views you are after, they are there, but you’re going to have to work a little bit more!

Beyond the forested basin cradling little Wagonwheel Lake you can follow a path another .4 mile and 700' of climbing to an open 4,755' knoll straddling the Mount Skokomish Wilderness-Olympic National Park Boundary. 

From this spot framed with silver snags and clusters of firs you can enjoy excellent views of nearby Mount Lincoln, Mount Stone, Mount Skokomish, Mount Ellinor, Mount Washington; and the vast emerald ridges dividing the South and North Skokomish River valleys. 

There are good views too across the North Fork Skokomish River Valley to Wonder Mountain, Five Ridge Peak, Six Ridge and other little known and little explored peaks. A region that pretty much looks as it did when Lieutenant Joseph P O’Neil explored this part of the Olympic interior more than 120 years ago. 

Along the Way

Despite its grueling statistics, Wagonwheel Lake gets its fair share of visitors and attempted visitors. The trail starts in a lush understory of shoulder high ferns and salal. 

The grade at first is deceptive, the going pretty easy. Keep a lookout to your right for an old mine shaft. Then prepare to do some serious climbing. The trail commences in a series of short tight switchbacks relentlessly ascending steep slopes. 

Wind through mostly uniform seond-growth fir forest, a testament to a past disturbance—most likely a fire.

Among the monotonous make up of trees look for a few western white pines as well as Pacific rhododendrons. In late spring and early summer this flowering shrub, Washington’s state flower adds brilliant pinks and purples to the verdant surroundings. The monotony of the brutal climb however, is rarely broken. 

At about 1.7 miles the trail comes to a small ledge. Here take a break and enjoy a window view of the valley below. Then commence climbing. The forest transitions from fir to hemlock. The trail and to your chagrin, steepens. Now foregoing switchbacks, the way takes an even more direct approach to subduing elevation. If you’ve hiked in the Adirondacks or White Mountains back east, the steepness of this trail compares to those areas where switchbacks are only spoken about as something that exists out west to make hiking easier.

After what feels like forever, the trail miraculously levels out. Now catch your breath, wipe your brow, swig some water and enjoy easier walking through old-growth fir and hemlock. The trail next traverses a steep slope breaking out onto a brushy avalanche chute. Work your way across slumping tread enjoying views to the northwest of Mount Lincoln and the serrated Sawtooth Range.

The trail then re-enters cool evergreen forest and crosses Wagonwheel Lake’s outlet creek. Just a hop, skip, and jump away lies the little lake in forested bowl. A small bench above the lake makes for a good place to collapse. But if you have any oomph left, locate a primitive path taking off from the main trail at the lake. It goes for a half mile straight up the 4,755-foot knoll to the north. The officially unnamed peak straddles the Olympic National Park and Mount Skokomish Wilderness in Olympic National Forest. From this peak’s meadows punctuated with silver snags enjoy a breathtaking panorama that includes the following prominent peaks: Pershing, Washington, Ellinor, Copper, Lincoln, Skokomish, Wonder, and the Brothers. Little Wagonwheel Lake sparkles below. Rest up and prepare your knees for the brutal descent. 

For more trails and information check out Explore Hood Canal’s list of area hikes or visit the Explore Hood Canal Hiking Map.

Forest Festival Turns 80!

A parade, a pageant, and Paul Bunyan, 80 years ago Mason County had it's own ideas about raising awareness about fire prevention. To help combat the destructive wildfires — while also promoting the importance of forests — Mason County hosted the first annual forest festival in the spring of 1945.

The history of the area is closely tied with logging operations in the area. In 1853, Michael T. Simmons built the first sawmill in Mason County on Mill Creek just south of Shelton. Around this same time, David Shelton staked a claim on a nearby inlet off Puget Sound. Sol G. Simpson came to the area and founded the Simpson Logging Company in the 1890s. The Simpson Company eventually expanded throughout the country.

Fire SafeTY & Timber Strong

The first Mason County Forest Festival showcased the value of timber, while demonstrating the importance of safeguarding the forests against fires. The ninth Forest Festival celebrated the 100th anniversary of logging operations in Mason County, and a monumental sign carved into a slice of Douglas fir was permanently dedicated in it’s location overlooking Shelton’s Oakland Bay. The sign can be still viewed today at Outlook Park.

People from all over Washington region flocked to Shelton to see “the dramatic Forest Pageant, the thrilling parade and the exciting contests of loggers falling, bucking, and tree topping."  On the festival’s final day in 1953 30,000 people — six times the regular population of the town — crowded into Shelton to watch the Paul Bunyan Parade."

Attending? Here’s What to expect:

In 2024 Forest Festival will  celebrate 80 years. With eight decades of courts and 1000s of volunteer hours this festival is a testament to the community's connection to its timber heritage, both as a natural resource to use and to protect. This year's festivities include classic elements that make this festival special as well as a few extra events.

Carnival
May 30 - June 2 | Grove & First, Shelton
Fun rides, games, and delicious fair food for all ages to enjoy.

Smokey Bear's 80th Birthday Party
May 31, 6 - 9 PM | 425 Cota St, Shelton
Games, food, prizes, axe throwing, and music with KMAS 1030AM/103.3 FM

Goldsborough Creek Run
June 1, 6:30 AM | Railroad Ave, Shelton
Different start times and age levels, start Forest Festival Saturday with a little cardio.

Fire Station Pancake Breakfast
June 1, 7 - 11 AM | 122 W Franklin St, Shelton
Pre-parade breakfast to support the local fire department.

Family & Pet Parade before the Paul Bunyan Grand Parade
June 1, 10:30 AM | Railroad Ave, Shelton
Everyone is welcome to participate in the Family parade before the Grand parade features colorful floats, marching bands, goups & businesses.

Logging Show & Vendor Showcase
June 1, 12 PM | Loop Field, Shelton
Food, crafts, vendors and a tdisplay of forestry skills, including log rolling, and axe throwing.

Rockin' The Forest Live Music and Dancing
June 1, 6 PM | OurCU, Olympic Ave, Shelton
All ages live music to keep the energy high and entertain festival-goers before the fireworks show.

Fireworks Show
June 1, 10 PM | Wallace Kneeland Blvd area, Shelton
A spectacular evening display lighting up the sky.

Shelton Car Show Off
June 2, 10-3 PM  | Olympic Hwy
Supports the NJROTC cadets’ leadership program and activities. Registration 8 -11AM.

For more information about the 80th anniversary Forest Festival and how to plan your visit, click the link below!

Bird’s Eye View from Mount Townsend

Story & Photos: Craig Romano

Mount Townsend | photo credit Craig Romano

Rising more than 6200' at the northeast edge of the Olympic Mountains, Mount Townsend is a prominent landmark — and one of the region’s most hiked peaks. Its broad open summit affords sweeping views of some of the highest and craggiest peaks in the Olympics and a myriad of islands, straits, bays and peninsulas below. Stand atop this mountain on a clear day and watch ferries and vessels ply the shimmering waters below.  Marvel at the Seattle skyline against a backdrop of snowy Cascade Mountains dominated by big, beautiful Mount Rainier. Ascend Townsend in the summer and be greeted by a brilliant array of wildflowers swaying in the alpine breezes.

Hit the Trail

There are four ways you can hike to get to the summit of Mount Townsend and all of them offer great views and a good workout. The most popular route to the mountain is the Mount Townsend Trail from its upper trailhead. An out and back via this route clocks in at 8.2 miles with just shy of 3000 feet of elevation gain. But if you don’t mind a slightly longer hike with a little more elevation gain, consider starting from the Lower Trailhead.

Throughout much of this hiking season you just may have to start from the Lower Trailhead as the Forest Service works on the upper trailhead access road rendering it off limits while under construction.

The Lower Trailhead start will add two more miles to your total roundtrip and another 500 feet of elevation gain. But it’s worth it. The way traverses a beautiful grove of primeval forest and passes by tiny Sink Lake where Townsend Creek performs a disappearing act. After one mile of pleasant walking you’ll emerge at the upper trailhead. As you approach the trailhead what may be an unsightly situation. The lack of an outhouse at such a popular trailhead as led many to violate leave no trace principles with some bad bathroom etiquette. Perhaps a note to the Forest Service in support of a trailhead privy can help rectify this situation.

From the Upper Trailhead, follow a well-beaten path and steadily ascend. The trail weaves through a stately grove of Douglas-fir and western hemlock adorned with Pacific rhododendrons. Time your hike for late May through June and enjoy brilliant blossoms. After a half mile enter the Buckhorn Wilderness protecting more than 44,000 acres of spectacular terrain in the Olympic Mountain’s northeastern rain shadow. Continue climbing transitioning into more open forest and start catching views that will only improve in magnitude as you carry on.

Cross several cascading creeks as you follow copious switchbacks upward.

At just past 2.5 miles reach a small pine and fir grove nestled on a small knoll just above tiny Windy Lake. And do hope the lake lives up to its name or its resident bugs may force you to move quickly through the area. In another half mile reach the scenic trail to the Silver Lakes. Bear right and soon leave the trees behind as you attain Townsend’s summit plateau.

Now traverse the subalpine tundra that upon a quick glance may appear barren. But it’s full of life and in summer beaming with color thanks to a myriad of wildflowers; cinquefoil, phlox, paintbrush, and harebells among them.

Look too in the rocky areas for Piper’s bellflower, a campanula that is endemic to the Olympic Mountains. Owing to its drier aspects, junipers hug the ground throughout Townsend’s summit.

At 4.0 miles from the upper trailhead reach a junction. The main trail continues left descending to the Little Quilcene Trail offering two more approaches to the summit—one from the Northwest and one from the Northeast. Head right for 0.1 mile to the mountain’s highest point, its 6280-feet south summit. Consider continuing on the trail a short distance to Townsend’s northern 6212-foot summit too. It was on this point from 1933 until 1962 that a fire lookout once sat.

The views are great from anywhere along the open peak. Gaze out to the Salish Sea with its sprawling labyrinth of islands, bays, and channels. Watch ferries ply azure waters. Marvel at the Seattle skyline sparkling in the afternoon sunlight. And admire a fortress of Cascade peaks, punctuated by the snowy volcanoes. Look north to Dungeness Spit, Discovery Bay, the San Juan Islands, and Vancouver Island. And to the west, it’s nothing but pure Olympic wilderness—jagged peaks and deep green valleys.

And if you’re wondering if Townsend (as well as the nearby city and port) takes its name after the 19th century naturalist who named Townsend’s chipmunk, Townsend’s ground squirrel, Townsend’s solitaire and many other species—it is not!

Captain George Vancouver in 1792 bestowed the name Townsend—originally Townshend for the Marquess of Townshend. The father of Thomas Mamby, one of Vancouver’s crew members was an aide-de-camp to the Marquess at the time. The S’Klallam Tribe which had a community on the bay at the time originally called it Kah Tai which translates to pass through. You’ll probably want to pass through Mount Townsend on a return trip by perhaps ascending it via one of the other routes.

Mount Townsend Details

 

Distance: 8.2 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 2980 feet
High Point: 6280 feet
Difficulty: moderately difficult
Snow free: June to November
Trailhead Pass Needed: None
Notes: trail also open to horses, wilderness rules apply
GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N 47 51.385, W 123 02.153
Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; http://www.fs.usda.gov/olympic
Recommended Guidebook: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2ed (Romano, Mountaineers Books)
Trailhead facilities: none
Trailhead directions: From Shelton, drive US 101 north for 50.5 miles. Upon crossing the Big Quilcene River just shy of the community of Quilcene turn left onto Penny Creek Road. The drive 1.5 miles and bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (Forest Road 27). Follow this generally good road for 12.5 miles for the lower trailhead turnoff; or 13.7 miles for the upper turnoff. Then reach the lower trailhead in 0.8 mile or the upper trailhead in 0.7 mile.

Feast your eyes on a face with personality to spare!

Story & Pictures, Thom Robbins

Get any group of divers together in the Pacific Northwest and ask them what makes for a great dive. Everyone will agree that a wolf eel was somehow involved. There is something unique about the supremely ugly faces of an adult wolf eel staring at you from its den.

Hood Canal Wolf Eel | Photo credit: Thom Robbins

This can turn an ordinary dive into a great one. The conditions don’t matter – cold, terrible visibility or strong currents are forgotten once a wolfie (as we call them locally) appears publicly.  It’s not surprising why divers worldwide travel to places like the Hood Canal to catch a glimpse of these fantastic creatures.

Meet wolfie

Hood Canal Wolf Eel | Photo credit: Thom Robbins

Throughout history, the peoples of the northern Pacific have held wolf eels in deep respect. Many of the native tribes in the area viewed the wolf eel as a creature of strength and resilience, symbolizing protection due to its robust and intimidating appearance. This belief often extended to the spiritual realm, where the wolf eel was thought to embody protective spirits. In Washington, the wolf eel is now a protected species in the Puget Sound and Hood Canal.

This is not because they are endangered but because their value as a living resource to divers and photographers far exceeds whatever commercial value the species could provide as a food source.  Some dive sites, like Sund Rock in the Hood Canal, are well-known locations where wolf eels interact with divers and provide unique photo opportunities.

Wolfies are not related to eels. Instead, they are part of a family known as the wolf fishes.

Hood Canal Wolf Eel | Photo credit: Thom Robbins

They belong to an even larger group of fish known as Perciform, generally considered perch-like fish. But their long-bodied, eel-like appearance is unique in this group of fishes. The wolf eel can be found as far south as San Diego in southern California, then northward up the Pacific coast to the Aleutian Islands in Alaska. The popular term “wolf eel” comes from the large frontal canine-like teeth used to seize their favorite meals, mainly hard-shelled crustaceans and invertebrates.  The typical menu includes crabs like Dungeness, Red Rock, and Green Urchins.

Most wolf eels can grow to about six feet long and weigh almost thirty pounds, although they can grow to eight feet. These massive fish are speculated to live up to 10 years in the wild, though no research is available on their longevity. Scientists have found that they can begin reproducing between four to seven years, suggesting they may be long-living fish. One fact that I find fascinating is that they lack a swim bladder, a feature commonly found in most fish species. The swim bladder is an internal gas-filled organ that helps fish regulate their buoyancy and control their vertical position in the water column. However, the wolf eel has evolved without this organ, relying on its muscular body and strong pectoral fins to maneuver and maintain its position in the water. The lack of a swim bladder allows wolf eels to lounge around on the bottom or lay in their home lairs.  Like snakes, they swim by making S shapes with their bodies and use their pectoral fins to steer. This unique adaptation allows the wolf eel to thrive in rocky coastal habitats, where it can navigate through crevices and caves with exceptional agility. By forgoing the swim bladder, the wolf eel has developed a specialized set of skills, making it an expert hunter and a master of its underwater domain.

Additionally, wolf eels have a slimy coating on their bodies, which serves several important purposes for their survival and protection in their marine environment. First, it acts as a natural defense against infections. The slime contains antibacterial and antimicrobial properties that help prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and parasites on their skin, reducing risk of infection.

The slimy coating makes it difficult for predators to grip or hold onto a wolf eel.

When threatened or attacked, a wolf eel can release more slime from its skin, making it slippery and challenging for predators to maintain a firm grip. This slippery defense mechanism allows the wolf eel to escape from potential threats. The slimy layer reduces friction when the wolf eel moves through the water, allowing them to easily pass through tight spaces and narrow cracks without getting stuck.

Lifecycle of a Wolf Eel

Approximately 24 hours before mating, the female wolf eel’s abdomen becomes noticeably distended. When this happens, the male will butt his head against the back of her abdominal region. This action appears to stimulate physiological activity. A series of waves move through the female's body from her head to her tail, particularly pronounced in her abdominal area. The male will then wrap himself around the female so that their heads will be side by side and their genital regions adjacent. In this position, the female releases the eggs, usually between 5,000 and 10,000, and the male fertilizes them as they appear. After fertilization, the female will coil about the eggs, molding them into a ball-like cluster. The eggs are adhesive to each other but not to the rocky walls of the den. Both parents will then coil themselves about the egg mass, sometimes together and at other times individually, tending the eggs and ensuring they are rotated so that a good flow of water passes through them.

After about 16 weeks, the eggs hatch, and the larvae float towards the upper part of the ocean or the sea, where they spend nearly two years of their lives. The tiny fish are born brownish pink, about 1 1/2 inches long. They turn dark gray within a day and start snacking on small shrimp after a few days. The larvae that emerge are left on their own to swim with the plankton in the ocean. From birth, they are voracious predators and will strike at their planktonic prey, much like a coiled snake will strike at a mouse. Constantly searching for prey, the larval wolf eels will lead a pelagic existence. Eventually, the maturing youngsters settle on the ground and enter a den. Denning will typically occur in the Puget Sound area from February through April.

Juveniles wolf eels exhibit a more vibrant and striking appearance. | Photo credit: Thom Robbins

The change from a pelagic to a bottom-dwelling existence spawns physical changes in the juvenile wolf eel. Juveniles exhibit a more vibrant and striking appearance. A vivid orange or reddish-orange color with darker markings often characterizes their appearance. This vibrant coloration helps juveniles blend in with their surroundings, such as rocky reefs or kelp forests. As they mature into adults, their coloration becomes more subdued brown or reddish-brown. The skin often has spots of a darker color, which may be outlined in a lighter color.  The males will also develop a puffy face, enlarged jaws, huge bulbous lips, and a powerful sagittal crest at the top of their heads to support the increased muscle mass required for the jaws.

Friends & enemies

There is no fairness in the realm of a Salish Sea rocky reef. A fierce battle for ownership unfolds around the most desirable den sites. The key contenders are the Giant Pacific Octopus (GPO), and the formidable wolf eel.

Both species vie for control over these coveted shelters, which serve as their sanctuary in a harsh underwater world. This struggle is fueled by their shared habitat, prey, and an unyielding desire for the same type of den sites.

With its unmatched dexterity and cunning, the octopus poses a formidable challenge to the wolf eel. I have watched the battle when a GPO ruthlessly evicts a wolf eel, sometimes even targeting mated pairs, and claims the den as its own. Despite the wolf eel's valiant efforts, there is little it can do once an octopus of even modest size has set its sights on a particular den.

Ask any diver, and they can attest to the futility of trying to dislodge an entrenched octopus from its chosen abode.

Submerging into the chilly embrace of the Salish Sea transforms the ordinary into the sublime. A serene quietness wraps around you as you descend below the waves, echoing the solitude of an explorer charting new frontiers. Gripping your camera firmly, you traverse this alien landscape, feeling every inch an astronaut on an oceanic planet.

Hood Canal Wolf Eel | Photo credit: Thom Robbins

Before long, you approach a wall, its vastness urging you to uncover. You glide along its face, examining each nook, cranny, and boulder with a mix of awe and curiosity. The vividly colored marine life enchants you, each organism a stroke of brilliance from nature’s palette. In this marine maze, your adventure takes a thrilling turn.

From the periphery, a wolf eel appears, locking eyes with you. There’s a mutual recognition, a shared wonder between you and the creature, silently communicating in this mesmerizing undersea world. The thrill of the encounter sharpens your focus, and with camera in hand, you ready yourself to document this surreal moment. You aim and capture the scene, forever preserving your encounter with the wolf eel.

 

Hood Canal Diving:

Sund Rock Marine Preserve

26472 US-101, Hoodsport
sundrock.com

YSS Dive Charters

24080 N US-101, Hoodsport
yssdive.com/charters

About the Author: Thom Robbins

"Fascinated with the underwater world in the Pacific Northwest,I have been a diver for over thirty years and have never been happier than underwater with a camera. I spend as much time underwater as possible, shooting pictures or teaching diving and photography. You can see and purchase my photo collections at robbinsunderwater.com. If you want to learn about diving or photography, reach me at thomrobbins@gmail.com.

When not diving, I spend time with my wonderful, patient wife, Barb. We have just relocated to Shelton to enjoy a more relaxed life. Without Barb, I wouldn’t have continued my passion for diving. She is my best and often harshest critic, pushing me to explore better photos. I also have a 21-year-old son who makes me want to be a better person daily. Last but certainly not least are my two English Bulldogs, essential to my family's life."

Head to the Mount Walker Summit

Craig Romano | story

The Easternmost peak in the Olympic Mountains, Mount Walker offers a commanding view of Dabob Bay sparkling below and the Seattle skyline shimmering across Puget Sound. The close up of massive Mount Constance, the third highest peak in the Olympic Mountains is pretty darn impressive too. But the real joy to hiking this trail is ambling through its profuse clusters of rhododendrons. Hit the trail to Mount Walker in May or June for an ascent up a purple mountain majesty!

Hit the Trail

While a dirt road winds four miles up the north and east side of Mount Walker allowing folks to drive to the views—hiking to them is far more rewarding. The trail ascends the mountain’s thickly forested west side far away from the road. But if the thought of busting your rump up a mountain only to be greeted by fresh-smelling folks who just popped out of their vehicle doesn’t appeal to you—then consider a hike up Walker when the road is gated and closed to vehicles. It’s also during that time that you can consider a loop hike by returning on the road.

On the rare occasions that snow accumulates on this low Olympic peak, the road makes for an excellent snowshoe or cross country ski route.

From the unimposing trailhead immediately begin climbing through a tunnel of rhododendrons under a uniform canopy of second-growth cedars and hemlocks. Washington’s state flower, the Pacific (or coast) rhododendron, grows in profusion along the steep dry slopes of Mount Walker. For much of the year the rhodies merely add a layer of dark green to the forest understory.

Pacific Rhododendron

But come late spring this hardy shrub begins to blossom, speckling the surrounding firs and hemlocks with rosy-purple bouquets. By June, vibrant violet bell-shaped blossoms ring throughout the emerald forest.

Interestingly, that although the Pacific Rhododendron is Washington’s state flower, it’s not very widespread in the Evergreen State. It primarily grows along the east slopes of the Olympics near Hood Canal, the Kitsap Peninsula and a few pockets on the western slopes of the Cascades.

It’s far more distributed in Oregon and grows profusely in the state’s southern Coastal Mountains as well as along California’s north coast. A clover, a flower more widespread in Washington, but not nearly as grand and showy as the rhododendron, almost became the state’s official flower back in 1892. But the rhodie overwhelmingly won the vote by thousands to represent Washington in the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair. It wasn’t until 1959 however when the state legislature made the rhodie officially the state’s flower. Mount Walker is one of the best places in Washington to appreciate this beautiful flower.

The trail climbs steeply. Occasionally take a break and look up to see if you can locate any of the old wire and insulators that once serviced a fire tower on the summit. After about 1.5 miles small ledges begin to break the monotony of the forest and tease with limited views. The grade then eases. Finally after 2 miles and nearly 2000 feet of climbing reach the North Summit viewpoint, which was the site of a fire lookout from 1931—1967.

Enjoy good but limited views west and north here. Then head to the South Summit (dogs must be leashed at the summits) by walking the graveled Summit Road for 0.4 mile to a picnic area and then following a 0.1 mile trail to a breathtaking panoramic view of Puget Sound.

Stare straight down to Quilcene Bay, Dabob Bay and the Toanodos Peninsula. Across the sparkling waters Green and Gold Mountains rise on the Kitsap Peninsula. Locate the Seattle skyline east of Kitsap. When clouds are absent or high in the sky, Mount Rainier adds a snowy backdrop to this beautiful scene. And if you’re here in June, the view will be framed with fragrant purple boughs.

Mount Walker

Distance: 5.0 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 2050 feet
High Point: 2805 feet
Difficulty: difficult
Snow free: April—December
Trailhead Pass Needed: None

Notes: From November 1 until March 31 FR 2730 is gated. During this time park away from the gate near US 101 and walk .3 mile to the trailhead. Do not block the gate, park in the road, or block any private driveways.

GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 46.554 W122 54.854 | Summit picnic area: N47 47.100 W122 54.077

Features: Exceptional views of Hood Canal; historic fire tower site; one of the finest trails in the Olympics for rhododendron blooms

Land Agency Contact:

Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 765-2200, http://www.fs.usda.gov/olympic

Recommended Guidebook:

Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books)

Trailhead directions:

From Shelton follow US 101 north for 47 miles. From Quilcene drive US 101 south for 5 miles) to just north of milepost 300. Turn right onto Mount Walker Road (FR 2730) and proceed 0.3 mile to the trailhead.

Guest Columnist:

Craig Romano

From forest ranger, to history teacher and now a full-time outdoor writer, Romano developed a love of the natural world growing up in rural New Hampshire. Romano has written more than 25 outdoor guide books including "Winter Hikes of Western Washington” (Mountaineers Books, 2009) and "Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula." He lives in Mt. Vernon with his wife and son.

Silver Lake Hike

Craig Romano | Story and Pictures
The Olympic National Forest’s Buckhorn Wilderness contains more than 44,000 acres of some of the finest backcountry on the Olympic Peninsula. Within this rugged corner of the Olympic Mountains you can hike on miles of trails traversing deep valleys of old-growth forests and along high windswept ridges granting stunning views. 

Hit the Trail

Located within the Olympic rain-shadow, the Buckhorn receives ample sunshine and consists of a much drier landscape than points south and west. Lakes are rare in this wilderness. Silver Lake is one of the few gracing the region. It provides an oasis for wildlife and serves as an excellent destination for hikers.

There are two ways to reach Silver Lake. The shorter route is via Silver Creek. This route was never officially built, involving instead from a well-trodden user built boot path. It’s rugged in spots and to reach it involves a long rough dirt road from the north. The official trail starts high on the southern shoulder of Mount Townsend. It involves more effort to hike due to its length and elevation gain—but it’s well-built and highly scenic. And the approach to it is by a primarily good paved road.

Nearby Mount Townsend—one of the most popular hiking destinations in the Olympics keeps most hikers away from these trails, leaving Silver Lake a much quieter destination. In early season wildflowers give an added bonus to the official route—but lingering snow can make it tricky. 

"Fall is the perfect time to visit Silver Lake with the added bonus that its resident biting insects have gone the way of the early blossoms."

Start your hike from the upper trailhead for the Mount Townsend Trail. Follow this well-worn & popular path through stately groves of firs and hemlocks adorned with Pacific rhododendrons. In late May and early June, the rhodies add an array of dazzling colors to the surrounding verdant cloak. The trail steadily climbs. Shortly after entering the Buckhorn Wilderness, the forest cover thins and views east emerge. Cross several cascading creeks and continue working your way upward. The trail switchbacks more than two dozen times.

The way crests a small knoll arriving at Camp Windy, which usually lives up to its name. Look below to tiny Windy Lake, not much more than a buggy pool most of the year. Then continue climbing coming to a junction at 3.0 miles. 

Here most hikers will continue right to ascend the open summit of Mount Townsend. You want to head left on the trail less traveled. Your climbing isn’t yet over however. Muster up a little more energy and reach a small gap on a high ridge separating Mount Townsend from the Welch Peaks. Take a break and look back east for a great view of Windy and Sink Lakes directly below. Then face west and enjoy a sweeping view of the Silver Creek valley. Silver Lake however is not visible. It’s hidden behind a small wooded knob to the south.

Now resume hiking crossing a steep slope that comes alive with blossom in the summer. Via a couple of long switchbacks the way descends more than 600' into the valley. Be sure to save some energy for the return hike, as you’ll need to regain that elevation. At 4.6 miles reach a junction in the forested valley. Here the Silver Lake Way Trail descends northwest following alongside Silver Creek. Continue straight, soon coming to Silver Creek. 

Hop across the creek and start climbing again following the creek to its source. 

At 5.4 miles reach Silver Lake in a semi-open bowl flanked by craggy peaks and ridges. It’s a tranquil spot where soft breezes often leave rippling signatures on the lake’s surface; and the raucous calls of Clarks nutcrackers (more common east of the Cascade Crest) often break the silence.

Find a shoreline rock and stay for a while. However, if you have some energy left, a steep half mile path to the south may entice you to follow it. It leads to a gap on a ridge high above the Big Quilcene River where you can stand mouth agape staring out at hulking Mount Constance towering over craggy ridges and deep emerald valleys.

Craig Romano is an author of more than 20 hiking guidebooks including the bestselling Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition (Mountaineers Books), which includes descriptions for 136 hikes throughout the Olympic Peninsula. He is a regular contributor to Explore Hood Canal. Also check out his list of 25 Olympic Peninsula waterfalls at waterfalltrail.org.

Silver Lakes Notes

• Distance: 10.8 miles round-trip 

• Elevation Gain: 3275 feet (High Point: 5675 feet)

• Difficulty Loop: difficult

• Snow free: mid-June to early November

• Trailhead Pass Needed: Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass
  GPS waypoints:
  Trailhead: N47 51.385, W123 02.153, 
  Silver Lake: N47 50.686 W123 04.247

• NW Forest pass required; Wilderness rules

  Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 765-2200; fs.usda.gov/olympic 

  Recommended Map:
  Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168S

  Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 

  Trailhead directions: From Quilcene drive US 101 south for 1.5 miles and turn right onto Penny Creek Road. After 1.5 miles bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (Forest Road 27); which eventually becomes paved. Continue on FR 27 for 13.7 miles and turn left onto FR 27-190 reaching the trailhead in 0.7 mile.

Tips for safe and healthy hiking during the Covid-19 Pandemic

We all must do what we can to prohibit the continual spread  of this disease. We can do that by adhering to the following while we enjoy our trails:

• Avoid crowded hiking destinations. If you arrive and the parking lot is already full, head to another location
• Opt for weekdays over weekends to hit the trail
• Hit the trail early morning before others arrive
• Avoid hiking in large groups outside of family
• Practice Social Distancing while on the trail, giving other hikers room to pass and keeping your distance from them at lakes and summits.
• Wear a mask when encountering others on the trail. A buff or bandanna works well.
• Pack hand sanitizer
• Pack it in pack it out
• Don’t be a surface pooper. Poop properly in the woods by always using privies first if available-or by heading at least 200 feet away from all trails, campsites and water sources and digging a cat hole for your business. Bury waste and TP.
• Pack out all pet waste.

Head to the Shores

Shellfish Gathering

With a salt water canal at its center and a myriad of lakes, waterfalls and streams surrounding the inner fingers of Puget Sound – this area is rich in aquaculture and water related opportunities. It’s time to start planning your outdoor adventures!

View fullsize

Click to download the Mason County Shellfish and Beach guide

If you harvest clams or oysters, make sure to keep them on ice or eat them soon after harvest. DOH advises that shellfish recreationally harvested from June through September, should be cooked thoroughly to avoid illness from Vibriosis. It is best practice to read posted warnings or call the Marine Toxins/PSP Hotline: 1-800-562-5632 for a recorded message that is updated regularly. 

Visit the Shellfish Safety Map or the mobile friendly version of the map . Clam and oyster season are beach specific and may change annually.  Always Check BEFORE you dig. 

“Prepare yourself with buckets, boots, license and check the tides & harvest map. Local State Parks support a healthy stock of clams and oysters for license holders – free for the taking!”

Harvestable Beaches

Some of the following reflect adjustments from original 2020 seasons to make up for opportunity lost during the Stay Home, Stay Healthy-related closure:

South Puget Sound

Hope Island State Park – Boat access only.
Oysters are incidental at this site but clamming can be quite good. This beach is a very popular place to dig for geoducks. A tide lower than -2.0 feet is best for geoducks.  Most of the oysters are on the west side of the island near the south end. The season is usually only open for the month of May but in 2020 owing too Covid -19, Hope Island State Park will be open for clams, mussels, and oysters Aug. 1 - 31.

North Bay – Abundant Manila clams and an enhanced oyster bed. The season here is short and locked into May and September under terms of a shoreline agreement.

Oakland Bay Tideland  – Open year-round, good shore access with parking. Manila clams and oysters can be found here.

Hood Canal

Belfair State Park – Excellent beach for oysters and Manila clams can be found here. Clams, mussels, and oysters open two weeks early on July 15 and remain open through Dec. 31.

Potlatch State Park  – Potlatch State Park and Potlatch DNR: clams, mussels, and oysters open June 8 and seasons are extended for two months to remain open through Sept. 30.

Lilliwaup State Park – Open year-round, excellent for oysters and native clams. Clamming is difficult due to the cobble substrate, but the beach is abundant with butter clams.

Rendsland Creek  – Open year-round, excellent for oysters and a variety of clams can be found here although not in great densities.

Twanoh State Park  – Open year-round for oysters and seasonally for clams, check season before harvesting. Good beach for Manila clams.

DNR 33, 47 & 48  – Boat access only beaches, open year-round for clams and oysters.

Eagle Creek  – This is an excellent oyster beach. Opens June 8 for clam, mussel and oyster harvest. Clam and mussel seasons are extended by two weeks to close on Sept. 15. Oysters remain open through Dec. 31.

Triton Cove State Park – There is very little clam resource on this beach, but there are good numbers of  year-round oysters.  Opens June 8 for clam, mussel and oyster harvest. Clam and mussel seasons are extended by two weeks to close on Sept. 15. Oysters remain open through December 31.

Dosewallips State Park – This is an excellent beach for clams. The best areas are in the mid-upper tidal zone in mixed sand and gravel substrate. Opens June 8 for clam, mussel and oyster harvest. Clams and mussels close Sept. 30. Oysters remain open through December 31.

Productive digging is also found around and among the oysters, an area often overlooked by harvesters. Please take care not to cover oysters with sand and mud as this will potentially kill the oysters.

Big Loop Creek Hike - for all seasons and abilities

Craig Romano is an author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks including the bestselling Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition (Mountaineers Books), which includes detailed descriptions for 136 hikes throughout the Olympic Peninsula. He is a featured columnist for the Fjord and Explore Hood Canal.

Jeff and his mom hiked the Big Creek Trail loop in mid August — check out their review of this hike marked moderate.

“Poets need not go to Niagara to write about the force of falling water,” wrote Robert Frost. Indeed. Amble along this circuitous route within the shadows of Mount Ellinor and see the forces of water all around you. Be continuously captivated by cascading creeks. Churning Big Creek and its tributaries will charm you with their frothy displays and soothe you with their flowing melodies. 

Big Creek Loop
Distance: 4.2 miles roundtrip  Elevation Gain: 850 feet High Point: 1850 feet Difficulty Loop: moderate Snow free: year round Trailhead Pass Needed: Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 29.599, W123 12.66 Features: cascading creeks, attractive bridges, rhododendrons, snow-free winter hike; kid and dog friendly, 

photo: Craig Romano

Hit the Trail

The 4.2 mile Big Creek Loop doesn’t go to a lake, high point, significant landmark or through groves of primeval forest. It just goes around the Big Creek basin crossing that banally named waterway and a handful of its tributaries. This hike is all about the journey—not the destination. The trail winds along forested slopes above Lake Cushman crossing tumbling creeks on a series of beautifully-constructed bridges. 

" This hike is all about the journey—not the destination."

A couple of side trails branch off of the main loop to hidden cascades crashing among jumbled boulders. Hike this trail without an agenda—just set your mind free—and pause frequently to admire the show. Generally snow-free in the winter and with easy accessibility, Big Creek can be hiked year round. 

photo: Craig Romano

While it makes for a nice walk on a hot summer day with its shaded glens offering respite from midday rays—autumn through spring are best.  Forested all the way, and always within earshot of tumbling water, the Big Creek Trail makes an excellent rainy day hike. Try to plan it after a period of prolonged rainfall for intense water shows that roar through the forest.

photo: Craig Romano

Utilizing old logging roads and newer tread, the all-volunteer Mount Rose Trail Crew built this delightful loop twenty year ago. “We have existed since 1985,” states Mount Rose Trail crewmember John Jurgens. The crew began as a group of Shelton area climbers who grew concerned over the increasing popularity of the old Mount Ellinor Trail. The old trail contained a section known as the “Chute” which was a hazardous rock and snow-filled gully. With the Forest Service’s blessing the crew constructed a new trail bypassing the chute allowing hikers a much safer passage on this popular trail.

photo: Craig Romano

 The crew took their name however from nearby Mount Rose. They worked on re-establishing the upper Mt Rose Trail when snow cover on Mount Ellinor didn’t permit them to work there. 

From an original group of about 5, the crew now boast a half dozen members who hail from around the Hood Canal Region. They currently maintain 16 trails in the Olympic National Forest. The Big Creek Loop showcases their topnotch bridge building skills. Robust and built to last as Jurgens puts it, I find the bridges works of art that fit in well with their surrounding natural environment. 

"The bridges for many hikers are the highlights of this hike. And children will find them especially appealing."

The trail starts from the recently rebuilt and expanded Big Creek Campground. Here follow what is officially called the Upper Big Creek Loop Trail. Most folks however just refer to it as the Big Creek Loop. The recommended direction is clockwise to take advantage of a gentler descent that will be easier on the knees. The trail immediately crosses Big Creek on a sturdy bridge—one of two provided by contractors and not the trail crew whom built bridges on site with area materials. You’ll immediately recognize the craftsmanship upon reaching them.

photo: Craig Romano

The trail briefly heads down stream along the creek before making a U-turn to begin ascending above it. Signed features and resting benches grace the way. After about a mile the grade gets steeper. Catch glimpses through gaps in the forest canopy of Mount Washington hovering above. At 1.8 miles you’ll come to a junction. You can take an interesting short side trip here on the Creek Confluence Trail which drops to the confluence of Big and Branch Creeks before looping back to the main trail. Here you’ll find good lunch rocks among the two tumbling waterways.

The Big Creek Loop continues straight coming to a junction with the Mount Ellinor Connector Trail just before reaching Branch Creek. The Connector Trail leads left 1.4 miles to the Mount Ellinor Trail and allows for a long and challenging ascent of that popular peak. If you’ve got some energy head one mile up it to a good viewpoint overlooking Lake Cushman,

photo: Craig Romano

The loop continues straight crossing Branch Creek on a good bridge. Just beyond it reaches Big Creek above a gorgeous cascade. Here a new well-constructed bridge spans the tumbling waterway.

The loop now begins descending, skirting some big mossy boulders and passing good views of roaring Big Creek. A short side trail—once part of the Creek Confluence Trail drops back down to where Big and Branch Creeks meet. The main trail now follows an old road, coming to bridged crossings of scenic Skinwood and No Name Creeks. Continue descending passing a few giant firs that loggers forgot. Notice the forest change here. The west half of the loop was dominated by hemlocks—while the eastern half is made up more of Douglas-firs and lodgepole pines. The understory is different too—cloaked here in salal.

Be sure to look up through the trees for a glimpse of Mount Ellinor rising above the watershed. At 4.0 miles come to a junction with the Campground Loop Trail which loops around the campground for 0.8 mile if you want to extend your hike. Otherwise continue right a short distance to return to the trailhead.

Notes: 

Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 765-2200; fs.usda.gov/olympic 

Recommended Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168S

Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 

Trailhead directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 15 miles to Hoodsport. Turn left onto SR 119, and proceed 9.3 miles west to a T intersection with FR 24. Turn left and then immediately turn right into the Big Creek Campground continuing a short distance to the Day Use Area and trailhead. When campground is closed, park at gate, but do not block it.

Trailhead facilities: privy, picnic area, campground, water.

Dogs welcome but must be leashed.

Squatch Watch

The deep, extensive forests of the Olympic Peninsula hide secrets. As the ancient coelacanth, a fish found in fisherman’s nets off of the coast of South Africa in 1938, or the chance discovery of the brilliantly bioluminescent megamouth shark (Megachasma pelagios) hooked upon a US Navy’s ships anchor in 1976, document --- the natural world still holds mysteries.

Before actual specimens of these species were found stories abounded about their existence, but proof was necessary to take these animals from the realm of cryptid to the empirical world. Cryptozoology is a term coined in the 1950s by Bernard Heuvelman, a French-Belgian biologist, used to describe the discipline responsible for documenting cryptids or “animals of unexplained form or size, or unexpected occurrence in time or space.”

The search for these cryptids or “hidden animals” has included research in to the Loch Ness Monster (Nessie) of Scotland, the Abominable Snowman or Yeti of the Himalayas, and the Lake Champlain monster (or Champ). More locally there are reports of sea serpents (often known as the Cadborosaurus) in the waters of the Salish Sea and Puget Sound and the Ogopogo lake monster of British Columbia’s Lake Okanagan. Another famous cryptid found across North America is the Bigfoot, or more locally, the Sasquatch.

"About one-third of all claims of Bigfoot sightings are located in the Pacific Northwest."

Washington State has the highest instance of direct sightings in the United States of creatures meeting the description of Sasquatch or "Bigfoot." Recorded by the Bigfoot Field Researchers Organization (BFRO), Pierce County takes the lead with total number of listings, with Snohomish and Skamania following close behind. After a series of sightings and findings of foot prints and other evidence, Skamania famously passed a law in 1969 that forbade the “willfull and wanton slaying” of a Sasquatch. Such action would be considered a felony and punishable by a hefty fine of $10,000 and jail time. This punishment has since been reduced to $500 and only six months in jail, but the endurance of this legislation demonstrates that the Sasquatch is still considered real enough to protect.

"The endurance of this legislation demonstrates that the Sasquatch is still considered real enough to protect."

Stop by Bear in a Box in Allyn WA for some amazing squatch art.

Sasquatch has been described as a large, hairy, up-right walking, hominid-like creature, often accompanied by a strong stench. The Sasquatch is often identified by strange “eerie” calls such as whoops and screams. Additionally, it is famous for its large footprints. Usually, these encounters are reported as non-aggressive but they often induce incredible fear and a feeling of unease in the witness and there are reports of Sasquatches breaking large branches and throwing rocks.

Indigenous people throughout the Pacific Northwest describe in their oral history and legends various versions of a Sasquatch-like-creature that is often characterized as a malevolent trickster responsible for stealing children and women.

The Kwakwaakaa’wakw of Northern Vancouver Island, British Columbia, tell stories of Dsonoqua—or the Wild Woman of the Woods—who makes the noise of the wind “ooh-ing” through the trees and lures away children. These stories may or may not be cultural traditions documenting the Sasquatch.

Many a campfire is made spookier by tales of the supernatural Sasquatch. Stemming from this, there is a new kind of tourism on the rise—cryptotourism. Professionally led expeditions are orchestrated by organizations such as the Bigfoot Field Researchers Organization (BFRO) and the Olympic Project to systematically search for evidence of the Sasquatch in areas of high reports. Usually, participants on these expeditions are taught in the field how to take accurate casts of footprints, make sound recordings, conduct surveys, as well as how to collect uncontaminated samples of hair and feces.

On the Lookout for Sasquatch

According to David George Gordon, author of The Sasquatch Seeker’s Field Manual (2015), mainstream researchers do not have access to the grants or time needed to properly assess the Sasquatch question, so like the Christmas Bird Count miraculously organized by Cornell every winter, volunteer, amateur scientists, or ‘citizen scientists,’ are the only hope to document evidence of the Sasquatch.

Training citizen scientists through organized expeditions is one way to further research and cover more ground. Additionally, these organizations file reports of Sasquatch sightings, lending us a powerful tool to create your own self-guided, cryptotour of the Olympic Peninsula.

Make sure you pack a good camera in the hopes you spot some unusual wildlife. As well, bring a friend or two as the more witnesses the more credible your evidence will be. Below are two top areas to look for Sasquatch activity in around Hood Canal from the BFRO’s list of Bigfoot reports.

Local Sightings & Reports

Jarell Cove State Park and Harstine Island area

• Report of an actual sighting in 2005

• Recent increase reports of hearing the calls of Sasquatches

Big Creek Campground & Lake Cushman area

• Report from hikers on Big Creek Trail of hearing the calls, smelling the stench and seeing oddly broken branches in 2010

• Multiple reports of hearing calls of Sasquatches in the Lake Cushman area

• Two reports of actual sightings in the Lake Cushman area from 2006.