Lower South Fork Skokomish River trail

Craig Romano | Story & Pictures

One of the most heavily logged watersheds in the Olympics—clear cutting and increased sedimentation has taken its toll on this vital river.  But in the last two decades a diverse consortium of agencies, non-profis, Skokomish Tribal members, business interests and local folks have begun the process of restoring the South Fork Skokomish back to being a healthy and productive river.

Take a hike, run, horseback ride or bike ride on an inviting trail along a wonderful stretch of the river. Admire surviving groves of towering old-growth, recovering old harvest areas, and a watershed coming back to life.

Hit the Trail

The South Fork Skokomish River along with the North Fork form the Skokomish River in a broad valley in the Olympic Mountains foothills. Here the river flows a short distance east to a large delta at Hood Canal’s Great Bend. It’s the largest river system emptying into Hood Canal. The North Fork is dammed at two locations, while the South Fork flows freely. However much of the South Fork faced major degradation due to extensive logging. Where it flows through national forest and private timberland once contained one of the densest concentrations of logging roads in the state.

Before logging began at a rapid pace after World War II, the Skokomish River, especially its North Fork supported healthy runs of Chinook salmon, steelhead and bull trout. The river is within the traditional lands of the Twana People which comprise of the Skokomish Tribe. Skokomish means “big river people.” The Skokomish People had four winter camps along the North Fork and several summer camps used for elk hunting along the South Fork. Since watershed restoration has begun fish runs have improved. Elk herds in the watershed remain healthy although numbers have recently decreased causing some concern among biologists and wildlife managers.

A trail once ran for more than 40 miles from the settlement of Mohrweis near the river’s South and North Forks’ confluence all the way to the South Fork’s headwaters near Sundown Pass in Olympic National Park. Logging on private and national forest land has obliterated more than half of the historic trail. What remains of the trail was truncated by a Forest Service Road creating a Lower and Upper South Fork Skokomish River Trail.

The upper trail is wilder leading into the national park and is often inaccessible for more than half of the year. Much of the lower trail is open year round making it a wonderful choice for a spring hike.

The lower trail is more than 10 miles long making it a great choice for a long run or bike ride or a one night backpacking trip. But to do the whole trail involves fording the river at 8.6 miles which is dangerous and difficult much of the year. By mid-Summer the river’s usually just shin deep and safe to ford.

From the main trail head on Forest Road 2353 the trail immediately starts climbing and steeply. After ascending about 350 feet up a high bluff above the roaring river, the trail enters a magnificent old-growth grove of Douglas-firs, some over five hundred years old.

As the trail nears the crest of the bluff, a half mile spur trail heads right through beautiful primeval forest to the LeBar Creek Horse Camp. Equestrians usually use this trail head as their starting point on this trail. Just beyond, another path leads right reaching a Forest Service Spur road in a quarter mile.

It offers an approach to avoid the initial climb. The trail now via short, steep switchbacks, drops back to the valley floor. Expect to get your boots wet crossing a cascading creek at the base of the bluff. Then traverse a beautiful glade of mossy maples and alders.

The trail now on a gentle grade passes by more old Douglas-fir giants, as well as a few stumps of cedar giants that were sent to the mills many years ago. At about 1.5 miles the trail reaches a low bluff with a great river view—a good destination for a short hike. From here it continues upriver crossing a side creek in a big-timbered ravine. After a stretch of boardwalk the trail reaches a junction with a trail leading to Forest Road Spur 140. Almost immediately afterward the trail reaches Homestead Camp about 2.2 miles from the main trail head. Here an old ranger guardhouse once stood.

Continue through luxurious river bottom lands crossing more creeks that may wet your boots. The way then pulls away from the river, before dropping back again toward the roaring waterway.  The way then traverses more old growth and crosses more side creek, these thankfully are bridged. Admire a nice little cascade before climbing a small bluff. The trail then once again switchbacks down to river level coming to a couple of junctions.

The trail right leads to Forest Road Spur 2355-100. The short spur left leads to Camp Comfort along a wide gravel channel on a river bend. Here at about 5.0 miles from the main trail head is a good turn around spot for a day hike.

If you decide to go farther  along the trail;, the way soon reaches an incredible overlook of the river on a bluff high above a big bend, where the river has eaten away at the bluff and trail in the past. Beyond the bluff, the trail is lightly traveled and a little brushy in spots.

It continues on an up-and-down course, before reaching the ford of the South Fork Skokomish (safe only in low flows) at 8.6 miles. It then comes to the historic Church Creek shelter. From here, the tread improves and the trail continues upriver, passing inviting Laney Camp and the spur to the old Camp Harps Shelter site.

At 10.3 miles from the Main Trailhead the trail reaches its upper trailhead on FR 2361 (accessible when FR 2361 is open from May 1 to Sept 30). Beyond, the trail continues as the Upper South Fork Skokomish River Trail traversing old-growth forest and a wilderness valley spared from logging.